Consumers’ Most "FAQ" About Lawn Care Answered by Turfgrass Research Specialists

(HIT) - From growing grass in the shade, to eliminating broadleaf weeds, there is no "one-size-fits-all" solution to maintaining a beautiful lawn that continues to add value to your home. Although lawn care requirements are similar throughout the United States, there must be some adaptations to the geographical location because of differences in climate, soil, turf varieties and their tolerance to area-specific diseases and pests. Except where indicated next to the question, all of the most frequently asked questions and answers apply throughout the U.S.

To address homeowners’ most frequently asked questions regarding lawn care, the not-for-profit Lawn Institute (headquartered in suburban Chicago, www.lawninstitute.org), called upon professional turfgrass research scientists from university extension agencies throughout the U.S. Each supplied answers to a list of the FAQ’s they receive from consumers. Here’s what they had to say.

David R. Chalmers, Ph.D.
Texas A&M University
College Station, TX

Q: Can I use a weed-and-feed type product?

A: Weed-and-feed type products combine a herbicide for weed control with a fertilizer product. These products should only be used when there is a need for both weed control and fertilizer application. One characteristic of these products is that the rate of application is inflexible because the product is applied at a rate to apply the herbicide so it is effective in controlling weeds. Therefore, the rate of fertilizer is fixed. Be certain there is a need for the herbicide and all components of the fertilizer at the rates that will come along with the herbicide application.

Q: Why is a soil test important?

A: Soil testing is the only way to measure soil nutrient deficiencies that reduce plant health, tolerance to stress and performance. Soil testing also provides fertilizer recommendations to correct nutrient deficiencies.

Q: How often should I water my turfgrass?

A: There is no "set" period between one watering and the next for all of Texas, or any other large area. It will depend on your location, rainfall, time of year, the grass variety, how much water you can apply at any one watering and the how well your soil takes in water and holds onto water so the lawn can use what is applied. Turfgrasses can take some stress and "bounce back" if you water the lawn when it really needs it.

The key is to recognize how your lawn shows sign of moisture stress. You can use a screwdriver or similar soil probe to determine the depth of moisture in your soil. Leaf rolling, off-color appearance are good indicators of the lawn needing water. Yet the whole lawn may not show those symptoms. Before applying any water, check the weather forecasts to see if you can wait for Mother Nature to help the cause with some rain showers. If no rain is forecast, apply water only to the areas that need it in order to conserve water.

John Stier, Ph.D.
University of Wisconsin
Madison, WI

(for mostly northern U.S.) Q: How do I control creeping Charlie (aka, ground ivy)?

A: Use a standard off-the-shelf broadleaf herbicide for lawns. The important thing is timing. Best applications are made in the fall for best control because then the herbicide is transferred down to the growing point. And if the plant isn’t completely killed, it may be weakened enough that winter kills it with the herbicide. For example, a single herbicide application may only kill 90 percent and the remaining 10 percent will not get through the winter very well under snow. The second best time to kill it is in the spring when it’s in bloom. It has small purple flowers and takes a lot of energy to make those flowers so the plant is weak then and especially susceptible to herbicides.

Gwen Stahnke, Ph.D.
Washington State University
Puyallup, WA

Q: How often should I de-thatch my lawn?

A: Thatch is the vegetative layer between the green plant and the soil. One-half inch of thatch is good; we do not want to get rid of all of it. We can create excess thatch on a lawn by using too much water and fertilizer. Bentgrass, Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue can create a lot of thatch if mismanaged. If you have three-fourth inch of thatch, you should de-thatch the area in spring or fall.

Q: What is the difference between organic and synthetic fertilizers?

A: Organic fertilizers have a lower percentage of (nitrogen) N and a higher percentage of (potassium) P per pound of product and require micro organisms to release the nitrogen. They break down very slowly at lower soil temperatures, due to slower micro organism activity. Synthetic fertilizers can be quick-release and slow-release. Usually they have a higher percentage of N per pound of product. They are not dependent upon soil temperatures for release. Both fertilizer sources must break down into nitrates for the plant to take them up. The plant does not know the difference in the source. Nitrates from both sources can leach if applied under the wrong circumstances, such as prior to a heavy rainfall or improper irrigation. Do not apply an organic N source to your lawn as a late fall fertilizer in WA. It will not give the results you desire and it can actually leach more than a synthetic product at that time of year.

Pete Landescoot, Ph.D.
Pennsylvania State University
University Park, PA

Q: What can I do about mushrooms in my lawn?

A: Mushrooms usually pop up in the spring and fall but don’t last long. What you’re looking at is the tip of what lies below the surface of the soil; however, they generally don’t do any damage to the turf. And since most of the fungus is below the surface, fungicides aren’t effective in getting rid of them. Since your lawn mower, depending on cutting height, probably won’t get them all, my advice is to simply continue kicking them over when they appear. With a concern for small children and pets, you probably should remove and dispose of the fungi.

Q: Shade problems: I’ve got a Norway maple or big red oak and can’t get any grass growing underneath it and end up with lots of moss. What can I do?

A: Grass isn’t going to grow in a cave. You need at least three to four hours of sunlight per day to have any hope of grass growing there. If there’s no direct sunlight in these areas, think about a ground cover instead of grass, such as myrtle, pachysandra and such that grow in heavily shaded areas. If you have some light and want to try a shade-tolerant grass species in the middle and northern U.S., I recommend a fine fescue if the area is well drained; if it’s moist or wet, rough bluegrass or Poa triavalis but don’t put it in sunny areas because it’ll burn out.

If you live in the warm, southern U.S. and want to try grass, Dr. John Cisar recommends the varieties of St. Augustine grass called "Jade, "Seville" or "Bitter Blue." He adds that if you have four to six hours of sunlight, zosia grass is a possibility.

Q: For general broadleaf weed problems (ground ivy, dandelions, etc.), when should I apply what product and how should it be applied?

A: At most home and garden centers or hardware stores, you can buy products with 2,4-D; dicamba or MCPT for spot treating. Simply spray the offensive plant in accordance with the product’s label instructions, as soon as the weed appears.

For more information about caring for your lawn and the environment, visit the not-for-profit Lawn Institute website www.lawninstitute.org where you’ll also find a complete copy of the award-winning book WATER RIGHT—Conserving Our Water, Preserving Our Environment, and other useful publications that can be viewed and downloaded.

Courtesy: Home Improvement News and Information Center

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